“No one reads restaurant reviews anymo….” I couldn’t finish my sentence because I realised that I had skim-read at least 3 restaurant reviews in the last two hours. In that moment I decided that with my return to blogging I should probably get back to talking about my food. So here we go…
Melbourne has some exceptional restaurants, so when conversation with hardcore foodies turned to Geelong, on multiple occasions, I had to take note. Restaurant Igni isn’t for the faint hearted. There is no menu. Looking around at the dishes on nearby tables does nothing to help because even within the same sitting every table receives different dishes. There is of course an opportunity to identify intolerances or dislikes and I suggest being very specific if you have strong feelings about anything at this point, because the rest of the meal is entirely out of your control. I am the person at every meal who has fully scoped out online menus, stalked instagram and decided EXACTLY what I want to order so this was a challenge in letting go. But I did, and it was worth it.
We sat at the kitchen counter with a close-up view of the action as each piece of art was plated and sent on its way. This heightened the excitement, ‘Do you think that is for us?’ we murmured as a waiter approached the pass. It also intensified the FOMO.
A selection of tiny snacks began the meal; incorporating crisp pickled radishes, fine slices of trout smoked above the open fire, crispy chicken skin puffed up like a prawn cracker and topped with whipped cod roe, and crunchy vinegar infused saltbush that could easily replace my love of potato crisps forever. From there a series of surprising textures and flavours filled the next two hours. Highlights included a creamy sea urchin served simply on a lettuce leaf with a generous squeeze of blood orange; aged wagyu crudo with horseradish, young almonds and a side of umami-rich pork broth; and an unassuming Spanish mackerel fillet dressed with intensely flavoured Meyer lemon sauce and served with a crunchy, buttery slice of nutty toasted rye bread – simply perfection.
At $150 for 8 courses this is well-priced degustation. The wine list is relatively short, and quite affordable. If you aren’t terribly bold in wine choices there are plenty of options for you. I like to explore the different and interesting and managed to find a few gems. If you want the full ride, the wine pairing option is an extra $95 per person.
Service is exceptional. Attentive waiters guide you through your unique experience with easy conversation and clear descriptions of the next mystery dish.
Would I go again? Yes, but I don’t think it’s a place to return to in quick succession. The lack of control over the meal means that you may well be served some of the same dishes as the last time you dined, which can be a negative if you weren’t particularly enamoured the first time around. This happened to my dining companion with a dessert of buttermilk pannacotta, macerated strawberry and freeze-dried red cabbage. He was served the same dish on a previous visit (over a year ago) and was quite sensitive to the slightly sulphitic aromas of the cabbage on both occasions. I did however love this dish and would happily eat it again, finding the savoury element earthy and a lovely balance to the sweetness of the berries.
If you are prepared to be taken on a journey by curious and creative chefs featuring local produce, and allow yourself to be guided by charming and attentive staff, then I do highly suggest you book a seat at the counter (and a train ticket to get you safely home).
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